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How We Incubate Mycelium Blocks for Mushroom Growth | Cultivation Tour

2020-07-27  /  17 min  /  2,573 words

All right, so sterilization's complete from the blocks that were made yesterday, so I'm just going to turn off the sterilizers at this point and unhook them from their power sources. Yeah, sterilization is complete. These are still really hot. These are around 180 degrees internally, so I'll let them cool till tomorrow, and then I'll unload the sterilizers and into the laboratory and let them cool until Saturday. At that point, and I'll come in and proceed with the inoculation, and I'll basically inoculate by pouring bits of my ciliated spawn or grain spawn into each bag, and after that, moving to incubation and allowing to colonize.

So yeah, depending on species, colonization can take anywhere from 10 to 60 days or more. Just push these out the way. Good to go. I'll move a stainless steel table in here to start getting some blocks out the way. I'll just clean off my table as well, so I'm just going to use some isopropyl rubbing alcohol, and we have just a big drum of it right here.

I ended up getting this, it's because it was so hard to get alcohol recently, so we just got a bulk bulk drum that we just have it on hand since we use so much, or it's a necessity over here, using it to wipe down surfaces in the laboratory and stainless steel harvest tables, stuff like that. Nice and sanitized, disinfected. We'll just proceed to the to the lab. These blocks were just inoculated a little over 24 hours ago, and uh, so they're starting to grow out already. It's time to get them into incubation.

So yeah, usually after inoculation, I can see see the mycelium start to grow out usually after 24 hours, so it happens pretty quick. This is the pink oyster strain, so this will be fully colonized within the next nine days, so we can get it into fruiting. It's a very aggressive strain to co to cultivate, and this is our fast fruiting uh recipe that we we use in in our production for oyster species and everything really except shiitake. So I'll just put these blocks on our shelves in this incubation space, and I make sure to space the blocks out because they do produce heat, so you have your blocks touching, they'll definitely transfer heat throughout each other, and it could heat your substrate up to dangerous temperatures. I mean, I've seen it happen myself.

So the incubation area stays between 70 to 73 degrees. We let our mycelium grow at about between that range. Anywhere above 75, and you know, it still grows well, but you want to basically not give an optimum environment for contaminants to thrive. Contaminants do thrive at like warmer temperatures, so 72 between 72 and 75 is a good good temperature for mycelial development. We keep our whole facility at 70 degrees, and then during the winter time, it's uh, we really don't have to use any kind of cooling or heating because the blocks kind of naturally heat the space.

When it gets in like the 50s outside, it still remains in the upper 60s to lower 70s in here, so it's pretty cool. Good rule of thumb is just doing it like finger width apart. If you can place your fingers through the bags on all sides, you're good to go. So here's the pink oyster inoculated just five days prior to to this one. This one was inoculated on 623.

Here's one from 618. Same strain, the pink oyster, and you can see the mycelium has started to just rip through this substrate, just tearing through it. So this pink oyster is a very aggressive strain. As with any oyster mushroom, you get a very fast aggressive colonization and a really quick fruiting time. This one's been going for, this one's overgrown.

This one's going been going since uh, the end of May. So we can see some pink oysters actually top fruiting on the top. This one was left as a grow kit that we basically just one of them that we still had left in stock when this happens we just You could just harvest this off the top and just fruit it as you normally would. Make a slice on your bag, put it in the grow room, and get a beautiful crop of mushrooms off of this still. So, but this is the pink oyster.

It's super aggressive. Expect to see top fruitings off this strain within 10 to 12 days after inoculation. So we also have some blue oysters in here, and we can see some mild fruiting beginning. So we'll, we'll get these into the grow room today because we're inoculated two weeks ago, so June 10th, and we already seen some nice pinning and nice growth. Right over here, we have some Lions Maine that were also inoculated just like 13 days ago, and we can already see the lion's mane starting to grow on the top.

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I like the top fruit my lines made for the first flush. Depends on how I'm feeling. I may not fruit it on the top flush or not top fruit it and just make some slices on the bag to to get a nice cluster out, but the top fruiting works really good for me. I'm able to get three to four pounds on my first flush. Rest of these bags put away.

All right, so this oyster mushroom that I'm pulling off is the, it's like a blue green or alternative blue oyster mushroom. It's a really heavy producer, one of my favorite, if not my favorite blue oysters to grow, usually yielding a little over three pounds on the on the first flush. I'll let my bags kind of start in the lab for the first 24 hours, depending on my schedule, because usually the next day after I inoculate, I come in and I go straight to my production, so that way I'm kind of not cross-contaminating my lab. I get my blocks loaded in my sterile sterilizer, sterilize my substrate, and then I come in on a day like today and I unload the lab. I also clean it and get ready for the next.

Inoculation procedure to take place. I also keep an air conditioner in my lab, so it's temperature controlled. It also remains at 72 degrees in here. That way, the mycelium is able to grow in optimum conditions, and we get a little time before we have to take them out. So now that the much, the basically production block, has been inoculated in our laboratory in clean, sterile conditions, and also sealed in this, uh, basically filter patch growing bag, so it's equipped with a nice filter patch, not to allow any contaminants in through, but also to let air and CO2 pass out.

So since it's sealed, I can let it colonize in a not so sterile space, but it's pretty clean over here, but it's not sterile like a laboratory. And these bags are just fine. You don't have to worry about contamination getting in unless there's a hole or puncture in your bag. And keep oysters, blue oysters, pink oysters kind of together on the same shelf. That way, when it's time to load into your grow room, you have, you're pretty organized.

You can just pull pull shelves as necessary to begin the, once the, once the blocks are ready to go. So now we're just ramping back up with our production, so this incubation space will be quite full. We can house about a thousand blocks just in this incubation space alone. Um, total with both both of our ancient space incubation spaces with both warehouses, we can hold about two 000 blocks at a time. We can also fruit about 900 blocks at a time, given the three girl rooms that we have.

Grab some more blocks out of here. We still have, uh, we still have some lion's mane, some green oyster or blue oyster, and some trumpet. So any given inoculation day, I try to inoculate with variety. So I did four different strains on this. At this point in time, you could look at your bags for contaminants if you're not really confident with your technique.

I personally don't look for. Contaminants at this point, because we've done thousands of these bags and it's always the same result that was ended up working just fine with our current method. So, no, we don't, we don't check check for contamination. Everything looks healthy. I'll do a visual inspection of the bag kind of quickly as I'm moving them onto the shelves, but for the most part, we don't really experience contamination with, especially with these oysters.

They're so aggressive that they're usually taking uh taking over your substrate within 10 to 12 days. There's no time for any contaminants to really take hold. Each of these little white spots that you see growing throughout our sawdust bag is basically a piece of myciliated grain spawn. So it's grain that's been grown out with our mushroom mycelium. You'll see this in our spawn production, where we basically hydrate grain and sterilize it, and then once it's sterilized, we inoculate in our laboratory with a pure mushroom culture.

Once fully colonized like this, the spawn is basically broken up to get each individual kernel broken up. This is our white pro so millet. I like this grain because the each grain is very small, so you get many inoculation points throughout your substrate. But we also, like, we vary from using this to whatever is available, soft red winter wheat, surgum. So now that that's broken up, we usually do this in our laboratory.

We can sterilize a scalpel, and after we've wiped down the bag with alcohol and whatnot, we can make a little slice to create a spout, and then bits of spawn can be poured into each, and then they're sealed and then shaken, agitated, so you can mix the spawn with the substrate, making sure it's homogenized. And after that, this is about 24 hours. We can see mushroom mycelium starting to leap off of each grain kernel and onto the sawdust, basically starting to utilize it as a new food source. So that's the, it's a little bit of uh the magic of mushrooms right there. These bags are pretty pretty heavy duty.

It's quite hard to puncture them, but if you do try hard enough, it is easy to burst. For the most part, they work very well, and they they have a nice durable, they're very durable, so they can withstand agitation, shaking, and whatnot. And these are the unicorn bags. So we use uh they, you know, they produce a wide variety of bag sizes with different filter sizes as well. And depending on the species, you know, we can use the 0.5 micron for like oysters or fast fruiting, and like a 0.2 micron for a shiitake, which is going to take longer to colonize.

Here's our reishi mushrooms before going in the grow room. I like to let the reishi mushrooms form these antlers inside the bags due to the high co2 levels within the growing environment. The basically ratio mushrooms create these antler-like formations in which they're kind of reaching for o2. In nature, that's how you'd find this mushroom growing. It produces uh it looks for o2 in its environment, meaning oxygen, and once it finds it, it basically forms a disc shaped conch, and that helps in which spread its spores and produce tons of spores.

So we like to let them grow out like this, cut cut them down, and roll the bag down, and then after that, put it in your grow room and watch these mushrooms form these beautiful disc-like formations. And uh it's really nice, very artistic mushroom, and as well as very medicinal mushroom to grow. So with the reishi mushrooms, they do, they colonize fairly quickly. It's one of the most aggressive colonizers colonizing mushrooms out there. We find that the mycelium takes over the sawdust within about a week, sometimes, you know, five days.

After that though, it does take a long time for the mushrooms to actually begin to form. Once they do form, it's usually about two to three months before we can actually put them in the grow room. These were inoculated three three months ago, three and a half months. Ago, so we're just gonna put them in the grow room today, which it's, this isn't also a great, a great mushroom to grow because you don't even need a grow room to grow it if you want to just to harvest them at this point and utilize them for their medicinal benefits. That's very possible, and that's actually what I used to do for a while before I had room to even treat these in my grow room.

They take a long time to grow, so if you do put them in your grow room, you want to make sure you have adequate space to house them because they're going to be in there for three to four weeks before you're able to to harvest them. So growing them within this filter patch bag is a great way for a cultivator to grow reishi mushrooms without having a growing environment. You don't need to maintain any humidity or any kind of control levels at that point, so just put them on a rack and just watch them grow. So this is our lion's mane right here. You kind of, this one's a little bit harder for for new cultures to kind of kind of grow, basically telling from the mycelium, because the mycelium is very faint and very wispy.

This is after 24 hours. It looks great, but you can barely see the mycelium on this mushroom, and it isn't for about a week into to where the mycelium really starts to thicken up. So this is about the thickest the mycelium gets. You can still see a bit of the sawdust through it, but it's very aggressive, and as we can see, it's producing fruit bodies already, and that's basically, this was about 13 days ago. So within 13 days, we have a nice solid block of lines made mushroom mushroom mycelium.

With our incubation space, we keep a bunch of different strains housed in the same incubation center. They all really grow, most of them grow at the same temperature as far as the mycelium grows, and then a lot of them can have different fruiting parameters. So you just have to be careful with that. At any given time, there could be 10 to 20 different strains or species of mushrooms growing just in this incubation center alone. Take a walk through your incubation and check out the progress of your of your substrate and the mycelium and the development colonization, just to make sure that everything's on schedule, and you can plan accordingly to when it's time to start loading into your growing rooms.

All right, incubation is loaded up. That's basically it. I'll come in and clean the lab tomorrow and unload my sterilizers and get ready for the next procedure to take place. So really exciting.